Hungary's tax dollars at work

You can tell a lot about a country by what it subsidizes.  Hungary, for example, subsidizes the arts -- heavily.  It also subsidizes public transportation, at least in Budapest.  But that is for another post.

Today's visit to the Bartok Marathon was quite revealing.  For under $10 we attended two concerts, one a celebration of the folk dance tunes Bartok used as the inspiration for many of his piano works.  It was charming and professional, with two modern folk dancers performing against the backdrop of early 20th century peasants filmed while dancing.   The second was an  orchestral concert, again performed at a very high level. And expensive to put on -- two harpists, eight French horns, and a massive string section.  They were very good, and while not sold out, the hall looked full.

And the venue?  The Bela Bartok National Concert Hall is about 10 years old, and has amazing acoustics.  Unfortunately, it's in a unprepossessing neighborhood, surrounded by construction-related mud.  Inside is just fine. And maybe it looks better in the summer.  But that is my only quibble.

I feel almost guilty taking advantage of these offerings -- but not guilty enough to boycott.

Belvaros neighborhood

Veres Palne Utca

Our Budapest street is named after the founder of the first high school for girls in Budapest in 1867.  The neighborhood is quite lovely, with five and six story apartment blocks with inner courtyards.  Our apartment building until fairly recently had little stores in the courtyard where one could buy basics.  Now the space is used for parking bicycles.

A late evening walk after a snow storm that left the streets wet revealed some interesting buildings, a church encircled by a high wall and gates -- the Serb Church -- several bars, a youth hostel and what is apparently one of the few vegetarian restaurants in Budapest.  There are also many historical markers, primarily noting the literary and political figures who lived in the buildings in the 19th century.

The street is mostly cobblestone and barely wide enough for one car.  Parking is allowed, and I suspect the search for spaces occupies a significant amount of time -- kind of like New York.

But I don't need to worry about that -- it's only a five minute walk to the veggie restaurant, which I suspect we will visit often.

The district is called Belvaros, which means "beautiful city." They got that right.

Adventures in Budapest, 1

Veres Palne Utca

From my study window I see the Buda hills and the Erzebet Bridge, which is beautifully lit at night.. Step out onto the tiny balcony and I can see a dingy rose-colored building with a big hole in the roof.  Repairs were clearly started but not completed.  That may be the story of Budapest -- lovely sights, but still slightly battered.

But you wouldn't know that Hungary was part of the Soviet bloc until relatively recently by looking at our street. Right next door is a shop that sells only single malt whiskey. Next to that is a coffee shop with a sign in English, "Hot chocolate to go." There's a dressmaker, a fruit and veg store that sells Canadian squash -- who knew that the neighbors to the north exported veggies -- a jewelry store, an ice cream shop, a bar, a restaurant (open 12:00 noon to 12:00 midnight), some kind of financial business -- perhaps a commercial bank -- and that is just our block. Two blocks away is the Vaci Utca, where one can eat, drink, stroll and purchase goods from Hugo Boss, H & M, Nike and Lacoste and a variety of German stores.

Lots of tourists, but lots of Hungarians, too, crowding the outdoor cafes even during 45-degree weather.  And what am I if not a tourist, albeit a long-term one?  Loving it.