Bowes Castle

Bowes Castle is a low-key attraction, not to be confused with the Bowes Museum, a huge, chateau-like structure intended to bring European high-spot painting to the masses of County Durham. We prefer the low-key stuff, and walked to the unattended castle in the dusk, with clouds of rooks circling overhead. The path takes you through the church yard, over (or around) a fence, and there you are. The castle is really just a keep, according to Joe High School. But you can enter the main courtyard, which wasn't all that big, and imagine 30 soldiers guarding or keeping tabs on the surrounding hills. There are signs requesting visitors to not climb the walls, and Joe reluctantly obliged. Then we strolled back to the Ancient Unicorn for dinner. My kind of outing--no crowds, picturesque scenery, and a good pub within easy walking distance.

Barnard Castle

An afternoon visit to Barnard Castle--a bustling market town with impressive castle ruins. The stones in the structure were carted off to build nearby Raby Castle, also open to the public. We did not attend, having overdosed on stately homes at Alnwick. OLGS, Joe High School and I had a picnic of sorts (primarily cream cakes, a rather strange Brit construct) on the grounds of the castle and then Joe High School literally climbed the walls while his parents took advantage of the sun. I tried not to watch, and it was probably not something encouraged by English Heritage. But he had lots of fun, and then went shopping on the high for gifts for his Minnesota pals. OLGS and I had tea in a tea shop that was standing room only. I do like these small market towns with all their retail therapy and their one historic attraction. It made a lovely outing, even if the camera batteries died without recording Joe's castle climbing activities.

Durham Cathedral

Durham Cathedral is billed as the best example of Norman architecture in the world--and it is indeed pretty cool. There are massive pillars--6.5 metres--to hold up the vaulted ceiling, with each pair of pillars in the nave having a differet type of decoration. St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede are entombed here. There is a tower that the intrepid can climb for a small fee. Parts of Harry Potter were filmed here (although Durham does not show up on the film locations map--see link). And, despite the many visitors on a Bank Holiday Saturday, the place retains the feeling of a place of worhip, no small trick given the size of the place and the hordes of tourists.

The city center is impossible to navigate by car, and the city fathers have prescribed a car park on the edge of town with a shuttle bus that takes you right to the cathedral (as well as Durham University and Durham Castle). In addition to being a cathedral town, and a university town, Durham is a market town, and there are interesting-looking shops and pubs, as well as an open-air market, in the area surrounding the cathedral. It's nice and low-key.

Hexham Abbey

A lovely surprise en route to Hadrian's Wall--the market town of Hexham with prosperous shops, terrible traffic, a very helpful tourist info. office, and the 7th century abbey. While most of the structure is 13th century, the crypt is indeed 7th century. There are some cool features--the monks stairs, a number of Saxon carvings, tombs with ancient knights atop, and a general air of recycling. For example, the baptismal font is probably Roman, with a cover made in the 18th century from 15th century wood. The monks stairs are now used by the choir to process for services. In short, nothing goes to waste at Hexham. And they have choral evensong on Sundays during term time.

Chester's Fort on Hadrian's Wall

A cold visit to Hadrian's Wall. I got the feeling I was at this same site 20 years ago. It's certainly possible. The Romans knew how to pick 'em--Chester's Fort is on a high bluff overlooking the North Tyne and the bridge they built to cross it. Anyone know why the Romans abandoned Hadrian's Wall, and, ultimately, Britain, leaving the remaining soldiers to melt into the surrounding countryside and become Brits? Or why they thought Britain was worth conquering in the first place? It was a long way from home, the resources were not obvious, and the tribute extracted from the subject population probably did not equal the cost of maintaining garrisons across the island. But maybe the Romans, like the rest of us, were seduced by England's green and pleasant land.

Alnwick Castle

Harry Potter (the first two movies) was partially filmed here. St. Cloud State University students study here. There are beautiful gardens, Titians and Van Dykes hanging on the walls, amazing public rest rooms, and helpful and knowledgeable staff. Joe High School was impressed and felt that the Duke of Buccleugh could learn from Alnwick (although the Buccleugh residence is not the home of Wisconsin in Scotland, Dalkeith House--unlike St. Cloud State and Alnwick). The Duke of Northumberland uses Alnwick as his northern family home. Not surprisingly, the Percy family (Northumberland) and the Douglass-Scott family (Buccleugh) are related by marriage. Don't be put off by the steep admission fee--it's quite worth it.

And, it's pronounced "Annick".

North of England pubs with rooms

If you're journeying in the north of the UK, check out pubs as a place to stay. Three that are worth trying (each for different reasons), are the Railway Hotel, in Rothbury, Alston House, in Alston, and the Ancient Unicorn, in Bowes. These are within 100 miles of each other, and well positioned for touring, hiking, and other English holiday pursuits.

Briefly, the Railway Hotel is relatively inexpensive, on the banks of the Tyne, with clean en-suite rooms, and no frills. They also have an extensive DVD collection and DVD players in every room. They serve real ale only in the summer, which was a disapointment.

Alston House (actually on the edge of Cumbria) has very comfortable beds and an odd decorating style featuring Myan suns and huge empty pots. They offer an exceptional breakfast, real ale, and home cooked meals. Joe High School preferred this place because of the quality of the breakfast and evening meal.

The Ancient Unicorn, in the little village of Bowes (which has its own castle keep which you can enter), has real ale, rooms in a converted stables, upscale evening meals, and a coal fire. The pub and restaurant are very popular with locals and visitors.

For those who don't know what constitutes an English breakfast: eggs, toast, sausages (those at the Alston House are local and particularly good), bacon (Canadian bacon, for you Yankees), baked beans, fried tomatoes, and fried mushrooms. Most places provide cold cereal and juice. Some pubs will add local delicacies, such as fried bread, black pudding (don't ask), fried potatoes, and other stuff. I estimate I took at least three years off my life eating a full English breakfast three days in a row. But you save on lunch....

North of England

A flying trip to the north of England. Durham and Northumberland are places where folks speak in a charming James Herriot-like burr, where there are zillions of sheep, high moors where little grows, and castles, keeps, moats, walls, and fortifications everywhere to fend off the marrauding Scots. There are lovely, bustling, and prosperous market and cathedral towns with no big box stores in sight. There are lead mines, hiking trails galore, amazing vistas, and real ale. It is strikingly beautiful.