Wednesday, March 22, 2006

Campbeltown and Kintyre


A lovely ride past Loch Lomond, through the hills, down to picturesque Inveraray, and on to the end of the Kintyre peninsula. The purpose--a family history pilgrimage. The landscape is high, stark and beautiful, with the sea visible everywhere and thousands of sheep dotting the landscape. I wondered why people would leave such a beautiful place, but if you're starving (thanks to poor agricultural practices and the Duke of Argyll), Canada looks good, despite the mosquitos, hot summers, and other negatives. We found the cemetery and the marker, the farm, and probably the church. The religious wars in Campbeltown were complicated, making it more difficult to be certain about the church. The Heritage Center was closed until later in the spring, as were some other attractions.

In addition to family roots, Campbeltown is home to the Springbank distillery, the only whisky manufacturer remaining out of 30 in operation in 1900. It is really good stuff, too--light but rich and smooth, with just a hint of peat and smoke.

We stayed in the Dellwood Hotel, a small two star that turned out to be on the border of the farm we sought. It came complete with a six toed cat, well-cooked plain meals (including the gargantuan Scottish breakfast--kippers available upon request) and a very comfortable(heated)room. Heat is good.

Monday, March 20, 2006

St. Andrews


St. Andrews, in Fife, is a beautiful and ancient university town. With monuments such as the castle, with a mine and counter-mine used to ward off 15th century attackers, and the remains of a massive cathedral, and the golf links, object of many golf pilgrimages, St. Andrews is a grand day out. Joe High School, sprung for the day from Dalkeith High, climbed the tower, crawled through the mine, and got thoroughly chilled. OLGS and I wandered through the town, visiting a lovely used bookstore, having tea in a Christian tea room with plenty of tracts, and hearing the St. Salvator Chapel choir practicing.

The university students in the choir wear the red academic robes of St. Andrews--most other students we saw did not. Anyone know why? The chapel has a famous organ--one of two modern Austrian organs in the UK. Just wish I could have heard more of it--the bits we heard were from the choir practicing some romantic piece with lots of harmonium--hardly a workout.

The wind blowing off the North Sea is cold. But the sun was shining, an added benefit after the cold and damp of Dalkeith.