Fall update at domtran

So many things going on, and I save them up for publication on Domtran rather than posting them as they occur on Facebook, like many of my pals. I guess I'm old fashioned.

Anyway, here are the current matters that contribute to domestic tranquility here in the city of lakes (aka Mineapolis):

-Joe College is having a great time in India. See photo.
-Household cats hate each other. See Mitzi's Journal.
-Love being back at Findlaw. Former colleagues think I'm nuts.
-Chinese student, Kevin, scored high on his TOEFL test. Today: SATs. He wants to go to NYU. When asked why, he responded, "I can't get into Columbia." Of course, I couldn't get in now, either. Weren't the 70s wonderful?
-Ceramic tile installed in kitchen. Looks gorgeous. Now we'll have to fix everything else to match.
-The First Snow. Looks lovely. However, one has to wonder why anyone lives here.
-Gophers playing down the street. Parking now impossible on our street on game days. Much anguish and chit-chat on the neighborhood listserv. And we can hear the play-by-play even with the windows closed, so no need to shell out $100 for a ticket.

Family resemblance

OLGS's cousin Herb came to visit. Herb has the energy of a man half his age, and he's 74 next birthday. He was full of sage advice about academic careers, law school admissions and much more. He knows everyone in the academy and has great stories.

He doesn't look much like OLGS--after all, they are only second cousins. Herb is short and voluble and has a thick head of white hair. OLGS, in contrast is way over 6 feet and quiet and has almost no hair. But as they sat at the kitchen table plotting career moves, there was a fleeting moment when they looked like brothers. Funny how that works.

Back to school

It's that time again. No more vacation, no more lounging around on the patio, no more lying in bed until hunger calls. It's back to school. Even for those of us not on the academic calendar, this seems like the time for change. So I up and quit my job at Globe University and am heading back to the lawyers at Findlaw. Many reasons to do this, but the most important one: it's a better fit for me. The cynicism and manipulation of the law match my personality better than the earnestness of Globe. I feel like I've been sitting on my hands, or in this case biting my tongue, for many months. Let's see how long I last this time.

I feel incredibly fortunate that I have a choice and can afford to indulge myself. Few people in this economy get that opportunity. In other news, Joe College grad went back to teaching first grade, this time in Minneapolis, Joe College starts school in India, and Joe High School Grad starts his career as a gopher at the U of M. And OLGS begins his 27th year of teaching undergraduates. I feel like the odd person out--the only person in the family not seeking or providing mental and spiritual improvement. Oh, well. Someone around here has to work.

From "Kek Duna" to "Father of the Waters"

by OLGS, guest blogger.

DomTran and I are safely returned to Minnesota after a long day's travel. I am proud to say that I managed, in Hungarian, to convince our taxi driver that he had taken us to the wrong airport and that he had to take us to the correct one if we wished to make our flight to Amsterdam and there make connections to Minneapolis. The mystery was why the hotel staff at the very elegant "Lanchid19" hotel told the driver the wrong airport, "Ferihegy 1."

DomTran was dubious about my insistence that the driver had made a mistake, but felt a bit relieved when we left the pre-war Ferihegy 1 (pictured above) and saw the new jetport at the second one, Ferihegy 2, pictured below.




In one day, we left the "Kek Duna" (Blue Danube) for what President Lincoln called "the Father of the Waters" when referring to the Mississippi River. We are glad to be home after a memorable vacation.

Budapest sightseeing

by OLGS, guest blogger.

We are staying at the Lanchid Hotel, right next to the Chain Bridge across the Danube,and center stage for the Thursday night fireworks celebrating St. Istvan Day. The fireworks were sensational and the crowd or a million people or more on both the Buda and Pest sides of the river were appreciative.

Yesterday (Friday), Domtran and I did a tour of the city and had a leisurely dinner at a Buda sidewalk cafe. Today we plan to visit more sites, before returning to the U.S. tomorrow (Sunday the 23rd).

Bratislava...Adventures at the *Hotel Kjyiev*

by OLGS, guest blogger.




DomTran and I left Vienna Sudbahnhof on the 14:28 for Bratislava. We arrived right on time less than hour later. The trip reminded us of the commuter train from South Station Boston to Worcester, but a little shorter in distance and duration. We took a taxi to our hotel, the "Kiev," which I booked for us on the Internet. DomTran and I knew that the hotel was an old, unrefurbished 1970s communist hotel; we had also read quite a few reviews, most of which noted the shabby carpets and fixtures, but some praising the good breakfast, included with the room.


The "Kiev" is old-fashioned in giving guests a key rather than a card for locking and unlocking the door. The key (shown against the doorlock) weighs about a pound or two and it makes sense to deposit it at the front desk when out and about. Our main critique of the "Kiev" is that only one of the two ancient elevators was in service and as we stayed on a high floor (# 14), we had some lengthy waits. The view, shown at the top, is quite lovely of a European capital that relatively few Americans visit.



By the way, DomTran took care that we always knew the whereabouts of the key. Guests at the "Kiev" are warned of the many possible fines that await them for abuse of property at the hotel. A lost key costs 50 Euros. We were also careful not to vomit in the bathroom, bedroom, or indeed anywhere in the hotel because of the steep fine schedule (see below).






DomTran and I are in Budapest tonight for the Hungarian National Day celebrating St. Istvan and the establishment of the old Hungarian kingdom in the Carpathian basin. We had quite a full afternoon, but must leave now for the Danube-side fireworks. Details tomorrow.

Nein Bruno; more Jugendstihl; from True Maria to Red Vienna

by OLGS, guest blogger.

Well, we did not make it to the late show of "Bruno" the other night. But yesterday (Tuesday) morning, we did set out for the Secession building and saw the 1902 Klimt frieze honoring Beethoven's 9th Symphony. Here's how the *Guardian* arts reporter described it when it was on tour in Liverpool last year. We also liked the sculpture of Marc Antony outside the Secession building, pictured above.

In the afternoon, we explored our neighborhood around the hotel and discovered the Maria Treu church from the mid-18th century.





It rivals KarlsKirche in Baroque gold-leaf and other features. Outside the church is one of the many "plague columns" as a thanksgiving to mark the end of an epidemic, this one the deadly 1713 outbreak. DomTran seems healthy aside the plague column.






Finally, in the evening, we went off to explore one of the "Red Vienna" neighborhoods, built by the Social Democrats in the 1920s. Here is a photo of your correspondent at EngelsPlatz.







This afternoon, we leave Austria for Slovakia. Bratislava is only 35 miles away, where we will post later tonight or tomorrow.

A visit to the Leopold Museum

by OLGS, guest blogger.

It is hot in Vienna today. DomTran and I spent as much of the day as possible out of the heat in the air-conditioned galleries of the Leopold Museum, located in the Museum Quarter, near the old Hofburg Palace grounds. I mistakenly thought the museum was named for some Leopold Hapsburg king or prince or other, but instead, it is named for a Dr. Leopold, a Vienna eye-doctor who collected 20th century Austrian Art. The permanent collection is especially strong in the work of the impressionist painter Egon Schiele. His works in his early 20s, between 1910 and 1914, included a number of haunting self-portraits, including the one above. He died of the Spanish flu in 1918, just a few days after his wife (and model) died of the same epidemic. His last act as an artist was to sketch a portait of his wife as she lay dying. His last act as a human being was to ask a photographer friend to take his portrait as he expired. That's it below, the artist dead at just age 28.






A more cheery traveling exhibit is some Jugendstihl works by the artist Josef Maria Auchentaller. He was Austrian-born but moved to Munich in the 1890s to join the "Jugend" magazine group. He returned to Vienna and joined the "Secession" group and helped edit their magazine. He and his wife took up another line of work, hotel-keeping, on the Adriatic coast after 1904 and the poster shown below literally promoted his family business. He and his wife Emma were chased out of Italy after that country and Austria-Hungary went to war in 1915, but after the peace, they returned to the Italian coast and resumed their hotel business until World War II. He died in his bed, unphotographed, at age 84.




Tonight, we plan to go see "Bruno" the film, thinking we might as well see it for its Vienna scenes and listen for how the locals react. Details tomorrow.

Sight-seeing in Vienna

by OLGS, guest blogger.

DomTran and I did a thorough bus tour of Vienna yesterday. Actually, we did three bus tours for one price: the first was of the 19th century Ringstrasse, the second of the Prater (think *Third Man*--Ferris Wheel scene) and the Danube; and the last tour was of the Hapsburg summer palace, Schonbrunn. We also strolled from the Opera to St. Stephan's Platz and had tortes and iced drinks at "Cafe Mozart" near the Opera. That's DomTran pondering the many choices on the summer menu at "Cafe Mozart." Very appropriate for a hot day in Vienna.

Mozart Requiem at Karlskirche

by OLGS, guest blogger.

DomTran arrived safely in Vienna yesterday afternoon, and after a short nap, we set off for a night of music at the Karlskirche. The program was Mozart's *Requiem* and we enjoyed the music and the setting. Charles VI had the church built after a plague in 1713 and spared no expense, judging by the amount of gold leaf widely applied. The top photo is of the altar and high backdrop. The bottom photo is of the ceiling, some fifty meters high.

Next stop Vienna... for DomTran and OLGS

by OLGS, guest blogger.

I complete my four weeks of language class at the U. of Debrecen tomorrow, Friday the 14th, and immediately set off for Vienna (Bécsi in Hungarian) to meet Domestic Tranquility herself. We plan a leisurely trip along the Danube with five days in Vienna, one in Bratislava, and four in Budapest, before returning to the Twin Cities.

The laptop is fixed, sort of, so we will be able to blog together, and just in time to celebrate the Haydn bicentennial in Vienna.

A Bécsi következő (next stop, Vienna).

They come back

Although OLGS is enjoying the fleshpots of eastern Hungary, our house does not lack for summer camp elements right here in ol' Minneapolis. There's Joe College grad, who says he has a housesitting gig, and Joe College, who is supposed to be leaving for India in three weeks, and Joe High School grad, who starts at the U of M shortly and is engaged with his parents in a lengthy discussion of dorm vs. apartment. The fact that both parents have nixed the apartment idea means little to him. He keeps trying. His persistence speaks well -- he will probably go far, but not into an apartment right now.

Light blogging until I go to "MediaMarkt"

by OLGS, guest blogger.

My laptop computer is not accepting a charge from the electrical adapter. For whatever reason, the laptop refuses to recognize the adapter (original equipment) as a genuine Dell product.

So I will have to go to MediaMarkt and see if someone there can help fix the problem. Until then, I will only blog irregularly...

A day trip to Oradea, Romania (formerly Hungarian “Nagyvarad”)

by OLGS, guest blogger.



The diakok (students) of the Debrecen Summer Institute boarded two buses early Saturday morning. Destination: the Romania border city of Oradea, or in Hungarian, “Nagyvarad” (aka Great Castle). Oradea is about 35 miles east of Debrecen, but there is still a border checkpoint and non-EU visitors, such as your correspondent, must show a passport. It’s even more of a hassle to return to Hungary from Romania, as the Hungarian border guards search some vehicles for contraband cigarettes. It took up an hour each direction to cross the frontier. The accompanying photo shows the line, about half-way through our wait. If/when Romania becomes a full member of the EU, the border control will be disestablished.





There are remains of a large castle built in the 13th century *after* Genkhiz Khan and his soldiers sacked the city, not that such a fortress would have stopped the Great Khan. The castle was rebuilt in the 16th century against the Turks, again unsuccessfully as the Sultan occupied the city from 1660 to 1693. The Hapsburgs built a third castle on the same site in the mid-18th century, presumably against the Russians, but maybe still the Turks. Anyway, the surviving barracks are now largely empty except, oddly, the Department of Art & Design at the University of Oradea takes up one building. The large windows probably make for good studio space.



The glory of the city is its judgendstihl/art nouveau architecture.



Some of the work rivals what I saw in Prague last year on UWEC’s Central European Travel Seminar. Some of the buildings are also in terrible condition. We asked our guides why this was as we walked around the city. Their answer, as best as I understood it, was that the Romanians were too incompetent to realize the development potential of the city to international tourism. We heard the same refrain from the Hungarian representatives to the City Council. They greeted us at City Hall and talked at some length about their minority status. Too bad most of the students tuned out, due to the heat, fatigue, or hang-overs from the previous night’s “buli."



My personal favorite building was not art nouveau, but rather a simple late 18th century church known as the “Moon Church.” The steeple has a gizmo (not the technical name) that rotates to show the phase of the moon. I checked that night and the gizmo, made in 1795, is still accurate.

Travel weekend; photos forthcoming

by OLGS, guest blogger.

I went traveling over the weekend to former Hungarian cities, one in Romania just over the border, and one in Slovakia, just over the border. Both have wonderful late Hapsburg art nouveau/jugenstihl/secessionist architecture. I'll make a longer post when I have time to organize my photos, but now I must prepare for language class. Rather: Prepare for language class ! (as we are studying the imperative today).